Lumbrical injury climbing reddit. I went to see a PT the week after.

Lumbrical injury climbing reddit However, I have just recovered from this specific injury and my PT, who specializes in climbing injuries, recommended the following: Initially, tape your ring finger and pinkie together (assuming that the lumbrical tear is in the muscle connecting those fingers) during the day, until you don't feel the injury anymore during daily activities. Took me about 4-6 months to recover as well. Honestly I just rested mine for a month then slooooowly came back to climbing and had it buddy taped to my middle finger (pain was between middle and ring finger). When I drop my pinky and pull with my ring finger, I feel the pain shoot up to my forearm more so than my palm. When I got back up to 98%, I was already climbing better than before the injury due to endurance and core improvements. Glad you got back up to V10’s. in general use the injured finger only with the two surrounding fingers also engaged, as this will take some load off the lumbrical muscle What about open three finger drag? I had a similar sounding injury which turned out to be in my lumbrical (forearm pain was actually referred pain from lumbrical muscles in the hand), it only caused pain when my ring finger was not aligned with my pinkie and middle finger. This is really informative, thanks for sharing. If this were a lumbrical injury (which it is not), then climbing on it is not a problem as long as it is correctly immobilized. I had this exact same injury before. I was not justifying climbing injured, I was saying that I do not have an A1 or A2 pulley problem and Thoreau999's advice was irrelevant. Can be feet on the ground and slowly putting weight on to where the pain is 0-1/10 max. In fact, if you only have a mild or moderate injury, then you go back to climbing almost immediately. Same experience - no climbing really, buddy-taping ring/pinky, slight stretches. Actively means that you do this under your own volition. Although the 3-finger drag reduces the load on the pulleys, it does pull on those lumbricals. I could keep climbing, but just had to be careful how I grabbed. My surgeon (a 5. I went to see a PT the week after. (b) Hangboard rehab every 2-3 days. Just read the whole thing. I tried climbing twice in the past 8 weeks but felt like this aggravated everything again. I got a lumbrical injury on a long climbing road trip, didn't really stop climbing. May 7, 2021 · PART 5: LUMBRICAL INJURY TESTS. (a) When climbing, “buddy” tape your ring and pinky fingers together. Mine was grade I - lumbrical strain and used this rehab protocol by eshlow. Climbing should be avoided if it is causing pain in the hand. . Aug 20, 2018 · Careful long-term training of one-finger grips, as well as proper pre-climbing warm up, will reduce injury risk. This can be done passively or actively. Took maybe 2 days off, climbed easy shit for 4 or 5 days, then buddy taped and avoided anything that felt tweaky. May 14, 2021 · The good news is that with most lumbrical injuries you can resume climbing quite quickly. Very light training with 3 finger drag. I think you misinterpret my response. at the time, i just buddy taped it… May 14, 2021 · The good news is that with most lumbrical injuries you can resume climbing quite quickly. Once easy climbing is pain free, usually around 1-2 months, gradually advance to more challenging lines / boulders. Nov 25, 2021 · I've sustained a lumbrical injury on my other hand just a few months ago (it's healed up to 99% basically now) so I know this is very similar, except it feels much worse. 13 climber himself) advised me to do the following until pain subsides: a) to climb on MRP (or IMRP), i. I climb in an area where all the rock is limestone, and I did find that 2/3 finger pockets felt significantly less "tweaky" after I started training 3 finger drag on the hangboard. However, you should buddy tape to avoid flexing one finger and extending the other, and avoid pockets and strenuous slopers! For example, if the ring finger lumbrical is injured, buddy tape it to the middle finger. Had the same issue (lumbrical tear at ring finger, from climbing on MR pockets). Exact symptoms as you, acute pain in hand and wrist when my ring finger was used in specific way/movements. However, you should buddy tape to avoid flexing one finger and extending the other, and avoid pockets and strenuous slopers! Reddit's rock climbing training community. I had a few lumbrical injuries early on in my climbing career. I also checked and tried pulling on the ringfinger and could feel the pain going through the middle hand and forearm. Based on how you described mild/moderate/severe pulley injuries in terms of how it should feel after a week off, it sounds like I hopefully have a mild one as after a week of rest it felt about 80%+ better. Lumbrical muscle training techniques will be covered in an upcoming T4C video, but cautious less-than-body weight fingerboard training on a deep, comfortable mono pocket is a good place to start (after a thorough warm up, of course). e. I believe my footwork and pacing got better too as climbing with an injured hand forces you to make improvements elsewhere. You have probably strained the lumbrical between your ring and pinky finger. Hand resisted light eccentrics with 3 finger drag to get some eccentric work onto the lumbricals. I climbed my first 13a like a week after the injury. Also avoid heavy manual work. Can do individual fingers if it's too much i injured some of the lumbrical muscles in my right hand about a year and a half ago pulling too hard on a pocket. To perform this test, extend the injured finger while slowly flexing the adjacent fingers. I've had 3 lumbrical injuries from unexpectly dropping ny pinkies, but training 3FD consistently for almost 2 years has it slightly stronger than my half-crimp now, and I can curl my pinkies as hard as I want to without any pain or tweakiness. I also climbed tons and tons of laps. Here’s what you should do. The lumbrical stress test is the main way to diagnose a lumbrical injury. Injured Pulleys - lumbricals can use the same method with open hand and pocket General treatment of climbing injuries. iyr kkvho pety bdrfib yglq qdoeh xrq ljpyol nqqxw qnrwwz